The Bonnie Bonnie Traffic Jam of Loch Lomond

So, before we begin (and we know we're already behind on this travelogue), a few words about Sue G. for those who only know me through legend and myth. Born in Kansas, raised in Connecticut, met Susan Cragin at UConn, have traveled with her to Iceland, Spain, Portugal and the Canadian Arctic. This trip was her idea and a fine one it has turned out to be. But I digress. Moved to the mid-Atlantic in 1977, have been a spy, a secretary and, since 1982, a bank employee, surviving several mergers and acquisitions. One of the things I have come to realize over the years is that I have a great interest in intersections between different ways of life and thinking. For example, I live in Baltimore, Maryland, a city that has been described (only half in jest) as possessing Northern charm and Southern efficiency. Scotland is a great place to explore intersections of religion, politics, weather and even geology.

We signed up for a five-day minibus trip through the Western Islands of Scotland and part of the Highlands because we didn't want to hassle driving on the lefthand side of the road through rain, fog and wandering sheep. We figured, let someone who knows what they're doing hassle the driving and we'll ooh and ah at the scenery as tourists were meant to do. Our guide, the intrepid Graham, looks like Kevin Britt (for anyone from M&T Bank reading this) and is extremely funny in that lowkey way citizens of the U.K. have, an excellent driver, and a walking encyclopedia of Scottish history, geology and current events. There are six other people in our group--a British couple, an Australian couple, and two Japanese women (one of whom at this writing still does not have her luggage).

Day 1 began with a ride out of Edinburgh--you'll hear more about Edinburgh once we actually get back there--past some major bicycling marathon. First stop: Doune Castle, a lovely building in its own right but especially dear to me because a good chunk of "Monty Python and the Holy Grail" was filmed there. Then it was out of the Lowlands into the Highlands and a small border town called Callender. Then we really did get stuck in traffic on the bonnie bonnie banks of Loch Lomond, albeit briefly. And very bonnie they are, even when you're at a standstill. Then it was further up the Highlands to the one main street of Beautiful Downtown Inveraray, where we broke for lunch and stumbled upon a Scottish wedding in full swing, complete with kilt-clad bridegroom. And that was just the morning. The afternoon was devoted largely to Kilmartin Glen--an important archaeological site I'll let Susan explain. We then bedded down in Oban. I should mention that sunset is at approximately 11 pm. We're lovin' it.